Roof top
ventilation, which is technically attic
ventilation, is a highly important element of
roofing. Proper ventilation will increase the
longevity of your roof.
Poor
ventilation will vastly shorten the life of the
materials. We see this scenario daily, roof
systems failing far short of the material life
expectancy. Had a very small investment been
made when the roof was installed, adding proper
ventilation, the roof would have lasted much
longer.
Proper attic
ventilation will extend the life of a roof along
with reducing problems as it helps balance, or
minimize the temperature differential between
the air in the attic and the air outside. Simply
stated; Proper ventilation will remove
moisture and heat from the attic.
Details of problems from poor
ventilation
Trapped
moisture and heat can raise energy costs by
putting a load on your AC. It can also cause ice
dams, damage to roof system and structural
components. Not to mention, personal items
stored inside the attic where temperatures can
easily reach 150° F (65° C).
Trapped
moisture (more of a concern in humid regions)
causes condensation. Condensation that forms
inside an attic can come from use of tubs,
showers, washing machines, clothes dryers dish
washers, etc. In extreme cases condensation can
be bad enough to be mistaken for a leaking roof.
Other Condensation Concerns
Deck
Deflection the deck of the roof can
warp, deteriorate, become spongy (soft)and very
dangerous to walk on. The adhesives used in the
plywood can deteriorate or Dry Rot. This can
happen happen over the course of several years,
extreme cases can develop this problem in as
little as two years. This occurs because one
side of plywood decking / sheeting needs be able
to "breathe" by being exposed to circulating
air....no circulation combined with
condensation...wood cannot "breathe"
Rust;
In humid regions water vapor condenses first
metal inside the attic; nails, plumbing straps,
straps holding duct work etc. Any uncoated metal
will rust over time, this could cause the metal
to deteriorate to the point of failure. Rusted
straps on duct work could break allowing it to
fall on ceiling joists, or worse yet, through a
suspended ceiling or drywall.
Mold, Mildew, Fungi; While the health
concern regarding mold has yet to be medically
proven, mold, mildew and fungi WILL cause dry
rot. Dry rot does not not remain in a localized
area, it will spread and damage any lumber that
is effected.

Material Deterioration
Roofing
materials are exposed to extreme elements on the
outside. Manufacturers of the materials have
accounted for the elements and constructed the
materials accordingly. Extreme elements from
under the materials, the attic, will not only
break the materials down prematurely, but could
also void the warranty from the manufacturer
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Optimum Ventilation
Proper
ventilation of a roof is obviously crucial.
There are a numerous types of attic vents on the
market, some better than others. What is
important is the components of the ventilation
system. Without the proper
components, the best vents on the market will be
ineffective. Following is a break down,
simplified, explaining the workings and
components of proper ventilation.
Optimum
ventilation systems consist of two types of
vents.
-
Intake vents, located at the
underside edge of the roof, known as the
eaves. These vents allow
fresh air to flow in the attic.
-
Exhaust vents located near the
ridge (top crest) or directly on the ridge
line of the roof, depending on the vent
type. These allow the air to leave the
attic.

Both Intake and
Exhaust vents MUST be in place,
and unobstructed in order for the system to
work. Properly implemented, the system uses the
natural forces of wind pressure and thermal
effect, referred to as the "Stack Effect" to
circulate and exhaust the air in the attic. The
rule of thumb is that properly vented attic air
should never be more than 15 degrees hotter than
the outside air. A temperature difference of
greater than 15 degrees is an indication of
additional heat sources, and/or an indication of
poor attic ventilation.
As
illustrated in the drawing above, the desired
circulation of the air is along the bottom of
the sheeting. Therefore the optimum system will
draw air into the attic from the eaves of the
roof through soffit vents. Circulate the air,
removing condensation and hot air up the entire
length of the sheeting, and out through the top,
or ridge of the roof.
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Vent Types
There are many
different types of roof vents on the market
today. Following is a brief example and
explanation on different type vents.
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Low Profile Roof Over Ridge Ventilation
This system looks the best and still vents
great too.
The
shingle over vent appealed to the
concerns of aesthetics, as the component of the
vent itself was masked with a ridge cap to match
the roof shingles. The early shingle over vents
were rolled out over a slot cut along the ridge,
fastened to the roof with nails, then the ridge
cap shingle installed over the vent. This type
of system is still in use today. Note: metal
ridge vent components are still in existence and
very effective for metal, tile and slate roofs,
with roofing material installed over the vent.
Low Profile Roof Over Ridge Ventilation
Ridge
ventilation is a highly effective method of
ventilation for certain types of roofs. Ridge
ventilation completely and continuously vents
the attic. It is also highly effective in
cutting energy costs and prolonging the life of
the roof. First introduced in the 1970's,
manufacturers have gone to great lengths to
improve ridge ventilation components.
Early ridge vents were
constructed of galvanized metal or aluminum,
while effective they are prone to bending and
denting during installation and severe weather.
Another drawback to the metal ridge vent was
appearance, as it detracted from the roof's
aesthetics. The late 70's early 80's the "curb
appeal" of ones home, and subsequently the
home's roof, became a factor, this led to the
evolution of the ridge vent.
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